Week One in the PIH house

Our new room:

Unfortunately, SLEEP DEPREVIATION has been the theme of our first week in the Partner’s In Health (PIH) house.  Part of the problem is simply getting use to a new place.  Our bed felt uncomfortable for the first few nights and our room is crowded with our suitcases.  Michelle has felt anxious about constantly being on call as she adapts to her new role as the House Manager.  In the mornings we frequently hear people stirring in the house by 7am.  Once someone is up, she feels compelled to be present in order to meet guests and have a chance to introduce herself.

The other problems contributing to our sleepless nights are mosquitoes and heat.  In our previous house, there were screens on the windows so we could leave the windows open at night to take advantage of the cool air.  The windows in this house have no screens.  We decided to take a chance and sleep with the windows open but the tradeoff was worse.  We were devoured by mosquitoes all night!  Even with a mosquito net, we were eaten alive.  Our arms, legs, necks, and hands were covered in small red bites.  The next morning we woke to find at least 5 mosquitoes hanging out inside our net.  Quite the cozy family, huh?!  The itching and scratching is one thing, but that mosquito “buzzzzz” triggers an involuntary response to stay awake until the predator is killed.

After too many consecutive sleepless nights, Nate now sleeps with a flashlight under his pillow as his defense.  Our plan of attack is to stand up in our tent, in the middle of the night, once the soul piercing buzz begins and start our killing spree so we can fall back asleep.  At first it didn’t seem worth the effort.  But now we know we won’t get any sleep while our arch nemesis is near.  Isn’t it amazing how powerful our human instincts are?

The fun part of Michelle’s job as been meeting all the PIH staff.  In fact, in two days there will be a big house party in honor of two recent engagements.  Peter, the country director proposed to his girlfriend, Neo, back in Boston just two weeks ago and Gene proposed to his girlfriend, Sheida, on top of Mount Kilimanjaro earlier this month.  Staff from all PIH sites in Rwanda (Rwinkwavu, Kirehe, and Butaro) will come to Kigali for the celebration.  Now we get to meet everyone in one fell swoop.  The expected turn out is somewhere between 60 and 80 people!  We are in for a fun time. 

The not so fun part of Michelle’s job is trying to make improvements in the house without having much authority.  Her initial assessment of the house revealed many problems areas that need to be addressed. Admittedly we were surprised by the number of things broken or expired given the fact that the house is used on a regular basis.  For example, out of the five bathrooms, only two toilets are in working order, one sink leaks on the floor, and others are clogged and won’t drain properly.  Up until now there has been no trash service so the MO has been to throw everything in the broken fountain outside in the backyard.  There are walls crumbling down due to water damage.  Every room had 75% of the light bulbs burned out.  80% of the mosquito nets have holes and are dirty, not to mention some beds not having mosquito nets at all.  After our first week of sleepless nights, we know how unacceptable this is for the comfort of our guests.  There is also a shortage of towels and pillows which makes for an uncomfortable stay when the house is full.

On the one hand, these seem like easy fixes.  Being the optimist that Michelle is, she felt great about sending her report the first day with an execution plan in place for addressing the most urgent needs before the house is bursting with 80 people.  Little did she know the reality of having to rely on other people to execute solutions while working in an inefficient culture makes these tasks impossible to complete in one week.  It has been quite the emotional rollercoaster this week.  We are two days away from the party and the plumber who was “suppose” to be here on Tuesday still hasn’t shown up.  Even though Michelle is in charge of the house, she doesn’t have the freedom to pay for utilities with petty cash or the jurisdiction to call the service people to come fix things in the house.  The procedures in place require her to go through the chain of command in the office.  As of now, her bosses have been preoccupied with other things so their response time has been slow.

The other challenge Michelle is facing is figuring out boundaries between her home and her workplace.  Even though the job description said 10-15 hours of work a week, the reality is it is a 7 day a week job given her role of overseeing the house staff that work every day and being the go to person for the guests.  Funny how she finds herself in another job that has blurred boundaries.  Coincidence much?! 

All in all, she is still very excited about her job and is energized by all the possibilities for improvements.  PIH is doing some incredible things in the health sector of Rwanda and around the world.  It has been a treat to hear about these stories first hand and to get to know some wonderful people in the process.  We sense the comfort of being adopted into an established community but we do miss our friend Esron.  In a lot of ways, we feel like we are faced with the task of settling in all over again.  Once again, our common ground from the many moves we have made in the past 6 months has been each other.  For this we are grateful!

Imana ibarinde kandi ibahe umugisha

A trip to Burundi

As we approached our third month mark (April 12th), we knew we had to travel out of the country to renew our tourist visa for another 3 months.  Nate has been working on registering IEE with the government as an INGO (International Non-Government Organization) for the past month but it is quite a complicated process. Every time he visited the Immigration Office to submit his forms, they would surprise him with more document and signature requirements.  Once IEE is a registered INGO, we can apply for a work and dependent visa (for Michelle as a spouse) which is good for one year.  Until then, we are only “allowed” to stay in the country for 3 months at a time as tourists.  Guess that means we have to take a vacation every three months to "reset" our tourist Visas.  Not too shabby!

Meredith happened to be out of town during the week we needed to leave.  We were thrilled to have access to her car so we could drive ourselves over the border and not pay for public transportation.  It was a fun adventure with beautiful scenery.  After only an hour car ride, we arrived at the border!!

Welcome to Burundi!

 Here is a picture of the border

This is the road heading into Burundi

Burundi looks similar to Rwanda in that there are lots of farm lands, impoverish communities, and the people  dressed in the same clothing.  However, the subtleties in the homes were very charming!  We noticed large clay pots placed next to many doors of the homes lining the street.  One difference that stood out to us was the round homes with thatched roofs.  In Rwanda, most homes in rural areas are also made of mud or cement but are mainly built in a rectangle or square shape.  We are use to seeing tin roofs so the straw roofs caught our eyes.  Michelle tried to capture some of her favorites as we drove by.

 

Our original plan was to eat lunch in Burundi but after driving an hour into the country and not seeing any restaurants, our stomachs got the best of us so we turned around without stepping out of the car to explore.  We will have to come back another time!

One interesting side-note, on our way back to Rwanda, we ran into a military training camp doing a work out on the road.

Overall, it was a delightful drive (except for the distracting hunger pains) with beautiful scenery.  Since the hills were not very steep throughout the southern province, we vowed to do it again on our moto for a more au natural experience.  We can't wait!  It's like driving in "the hidden valley" from "The Land Before Time." Fantasy come to life, just beautiful.

Imana ibarinde kandi ibahe umugisha

Mourning the Victims of the Genocide

Today kids went back to school after a two week break to commemorate those who lost their lives during the Genocide 16 years ago.  April 7th marks the first day of the 100 days of horror.  We quickly learned that most ex-pats travel during this time as their work is usually shut down.  This time tends to be a somber atmosphere.  We had the chance to help out our friends, the Brostrom family, by house-sitting and taking care of their dog (Cassius) and cat (Cyeza).

Even though we don’t have a direct personal connection to the Genocide, we were curious about the mourning process for those left behind.  We can’t imagine experiencing such an atrocity in our own lives, but when you sit with others who are suffering, the pain is palpable.

We noticed our hearts feeling nervous on the morning on April 7th because we didn’t know what to expect.  People told us that the large gathering at the stadium last year was a traumatic experience due to the wailing and screaming of people in mourning.  We were nervous about experiencing such intense sadness.  It is almost as if people bottle up their sadness until this time of year when it explodes like a broken dam.  How would people feel about mzungus mourning with them?  What posture should we take?  Do we remain silent?  Do we ask questions to learn and to remember those lives that were stolen?  We landed on simply showing up and being present.  The most comfortable posture for us was one of a listener.

Our experience was not completely in line with the feedback we have heard about last year.  It was true that life was different on April 7th but the mourning wasn’t as disturbing as people described.  Kigali felt like a ghost town.  There was an eerie quietness, almost like the silence after a huge snow fall when all sound seems muted.  We noticed fewer women on the street, less meet and greet between pedestrians, many people carrying kerchiefs in their hands as they went to and fro, fewer vehicles on the road, all businesses shut down, closed doors and windows, and lots of purple and black clothing.  Purple is the color of mourning in Rwanda. 

The main event we participated in was called “A Walk to Remember.”  Here is a news article about the event in you are interested: http://allafrica.com/stories/201004080155.html  This was a movement all over East Africa to stand against genocide ideology.  People in the capitols of Kenya, Burundi, Tanzania, and Uganda all walked in solidarity with people in Rwanda.  The walk in Kigali started at the Parliament building for its significance of being one of the first buildings attacked on April 7, 1994.  Today, you can still see the gun shots and grenade wounds on one side of the building so that no one forgets what happened.

 

President Paul Kagame made an appearance to address the crowd with some encouragement.  He directed his thoughts to the younger people reminding them that they are the future of Rwanda and the responsibility that comes with that position.  He encouraged them to dream big, to strive for higher education and to be agents of change.  He empowered everyone to stand together as unified Rwandans in hope for a brighter future.  It was a very powerful experience to join about 8,000 people from all different backgrounds (although mostly Rwandans) for a walk to the National Amahoro Stadium.  What is usually a very busy street connecting our neighborhood,  Kacyiru to the next sector called Remera, was closed for this event.  When we arrived at the stadium we formed a large circle around the field holding hands in unity.  There were many singers, both solo artists and choirs singing in Kinyarwanda.  We heard many readers perform poems and inspirational readings.  A group of children from Uganda read a list of names belonging to Tutsis who were murdered 16 years ago.  There was also a large bon fire blazing in the night.  We finished with a candlelight vigil accompanied with music that was a stunning sight. We expected a packed house but much to our surprise, it was only about 70% full.  Perhaps more people showed up after 7pm when we made our exit to attend to an anxious dog.

Overall, I think we can say we will never understand loss at this level.  Our perceptions, reflections and emotions still feel far away from the rawness of the Rwandan Genocide .  We struggle with feeling removed while our friends and neighbors are dealing with something very real, something central to their identities. While we may notice patterns, participate in activities or learn more from movies, our presence is all we have to contribute.

Imana ibarinde kandi ibahe umugisha

"Pasika Nziza!" –Happy Easter

We went to a new church called Christ Church in Rwanda (CCR) on Easter morning.  Admittedly we had high hopes given the significance of the holiday and the brief description of the church.  To say we were sorely disappointed is putting it lightly.  Nate said this was in the top 5 worst services he has been too, holiday or not.

CCR is a non-denominational church located in one of the wealthier neighborhoods of Kigali called Nyarutarama.  The large, beautiful building is smack dab in the middle of the Gaculiro Estates: large homes predominately occupied by westerners.  We were attracted to the non-denominational background along with the opportunity to attend an English service in order to engage more deeply in the worship service.

When we walked into the sanctuary people were singing a familiar song “Once Again,” which warmed our hearts.  We were pleased to see a diverse community of 200 people.  However, it didn’t take long for us to observe the lack of participation after the first song.  The proceeding songs were dramatically slow with lyrics that lived in the clouds rather than your heart.  If the music wasn’t enough, the “nod” (and that is being generous) to communion was the strangest invitation we have ever heard to celebrate the Eucharist.

To put it simply, they asked for those people in the congregation who take Jesus seriously to partake in communion.  At that point, the live music stopped and a Christian pop song on a CD from the states rang through the speakers.  People got up from their seats to form lines at the four different tables lining the perimeter of the room.  Once we got a view of the table, we discovered those classic, shiny, metal plate-bowl type containers that Michelle remembers from her childhood churches in VA. (Morck sisters, can I get a witness?!)  The first one held small, thin pieces of a pita bread as the “body of Christ.”  The second container sat adjacent to the bread representing the “blood of Christ” in mini, individual, plastic juice containers full of cranberry juice.  The most awkward part for us was taking the elements instead of receiving the elements with no confession and without so much as a glance to the Bible for the context of this special ritual.

After communion a man took the microphone to begin the sermon.  With no introduction, we assumed he was the senior pastor who seemed like a nice person but appeared very insecure.  He had typed up his thoughts and was clearly afraid to veer off script.  He prefaced his sermon by directing us to the half page bulletin that revealed the outline to his thoughts.  Then he proceeded to share his 7 lessons from the Resurrection:

1.      The Resurrection proves that Jesus is God’s Son. John 10:17-18
2.      It verifies the truth of Scripture. Psalms 16:10, 110:1
3.      Assures our own future resurrection. 1Thes. 4:13-18
4.      Is proof of a future judgment. Acts 17:31
5.      Is the basis for Christ’s heavenly priesthood. Heb. 7:23-28
6.      Gives the power for Christian living. Romans 6:4
7.      Assures our future inheritance. 1 Peter 1:3-5

He summed it all up with this statement: “This is the heart of the Gospel.  If you remove the resurrection, Christianity is destroyed.  The entire structure of the Christian faith rests on the foundation of the Resurrection.”  Then he concludes with the commission.  “We must not keep the resurrection to ourselves.  The basic message of Jesus from the resurrection is two-fold: ‘come and see’ followed by ‘go and tell.’

Is that really what Easter is all about?!  A long list of theological arguments for the justification of the Christian faith?!  Was Jesus’ life not radical enough to inspire followers despite the outcome?  YES we are grateful for forgiveness.  YES we are in awe of the mystery of the resurrection.  YES our lives have been changed by the pursuit of the divine.  And YES, Jesus is worth sharing with people who don’t otherwise know him.  But you can’t convince us that the significance of Easter is exemplified in the validation of a religion called Christianity.  That is like going to the movies, getting your ticket and a big ole’ bucket of popcorn with extra butter only to sit in the lobby…eating…popcorn…hmmm..mmm that is some good popcorn!

Unfortunately, the story is happening in the theater.  The art, the substance, the whole point of going to see a movie is getting lost in a story.  This Easter, we got to the theater.  We bought our ticket and popcorn only to be told there is no movie playing just some stale, old popcorn.

At the very least, anyone who considers themselves a spiritual leader should offer up some personal experience.  They don’t have to be an expert (even better if they aren’t) but a few thoughts on what the resurrection means to them this Easter would suffice.  Now, don’t get us wrong, we wouldn't do it perfectly either if given the chance.  In fact, Michelle has been in leadership positions on Easter Sunday many times and her nerves stole her confidence away in the blink of an eye.  We both have a lot to learn when it comes to effective leadership but our experience in the church has left us with strong opinions. Our desire is to take God seriously, but not take ourselves too seriously.  Where is the fun?!  It’s Easter for crying out loud, let’s CELEBRATE and throw a party!!!  If a dear friend of ours was brutally executed two days ago and is found alive today, you better believe we would be throwing the biggest party of the year.

This service had no aesthetic beauty and no heart.  All it offered was a theological summary of why we can feel good about ourselves choosing the correct religion.  There were a number of times when Michelle’s eyes weld up with tears out of her longing for the Trinity community back home.  For all the critiques she could make about Trinity’s services, there are subtle details she took for granted that make a huge difference in a worship environment.  Most importantly, this was the first Easter in five years that she wasn’t standing on the beach with a small group of close friends, celebrating the joy of Easter as the sun came up over the ocean.  Magical!  Oh how we long to be on that beach among friends.  Holidays just aren’t the same without celebrating with people we love.  We miss you friends and family!  If nothing else, today gave us a gift.  A gift of appreciation for the love we have received and don’t want to live without.  Above all, God is a mystery that we have grown to respect and trust.  Thank goodness for Jesus and the radical love he stands for.  May none of us ever go without that love.

 Imana ibarinde kandi ibahe umugisha.

My first job offer!

As of April 15th I (Michelle) will officially join the Partners In Health (PIH) team in Kigali as their House Manager.  This is a part-time position that provides free housing in exchange for approximately 15 hours of work per week.

My responsibilities include:

1. Overseeing all issues related to the PIH House
2. Supporting the General Administration Assistant (Liliane) with distribution of items needed at the house
3. Manage house staff (guards, cleaners, etc.)
4. Receive and provide administrative and logistical orientation to new coming PIH foreign staff or visitors
5. Manage online spread sheet for Kigali house sign-up
6. Responding to all queries of staff and visitors staying at the house
7. Help visitors at their departure time
8. Manage and support the internet service at the house
9. Ensure a welcoming and pleasant environment for all visitors and staff
10. Working with house staff to follow up and support all repairs to ensure everything is in good condition
11. Aid logistically in management of pick-up and drop-off of items left at the house

This is a great opportunity to save money on living costs and gain some valuable experience in “hotel management,” on a small scale of course.  There are 9 bedrooms and 5 bathrooms in the home, housing around 15 people at a time.  I have signed a 3 month contract as a pilot run to see how it works for both parties.  There hasn’t been a house manager at the PIH home before so this is unchartered territory for both of us.  I am excited to learn a lot about managing a bed & breakfast style home while maintaining a flexible work schedule.  You should see the beautiful house we get to live in!  It is the largest home I have set foot in while being in Rwanda but very sterile with bare walls and empty cabinets.  I couldn’t be more excited to transform the space into a hospitable environment.  The challenge will be establishing realistic goals when dreaming about the many improvements I would like to make.  There isn’t much of a budget so I will have to be creative.

Another reason I chose this job is to have an excuse to bump in to PIH people on a regular basis.  I am so impressed with the work they are doing and would love to get to know them on a personal level.  Please check out their website to read more about their values, mission and vision.  One of their distinctions has been their commitment to serving the people in Haiti.  After the earthquake hit, they have been pivotal in distributing aid to suffering people.  A quick shameless plug: If you are looking for ways to support people in some of the neediest places in the world, donate to PIH now.  You can be confident that your money is in great hands and will be put to good use!

Imana ibarinde kandi ibahe umugisha